A holiday by car to Italy from the Netherlands is very easy and popular. Thousands of Dutch people do this every year, with the peak in the summer holidays. We left mid-September 2022 with our own fully loaded car. Tjerk turned 1 year old during this trip and to our experience it was great to do this road trip with him.
In this blog I tell you more about our route through Italy from Piedmont to Le Marche and back via Lago Maggiore and the stopovers that are worth it:
Tip: In the map, turn the different layers on or off via the left square button in the grey bar.
Tip: It’s certainly advisable not to go during the summer holidays, but rather in May/June or September, if you have the opportunity.
1. Wine tasting in Piedmont
Agriturismo Il Milin (Asti)
IIl Milin is a beautiful agriturismo in the middle of the vineyards, a stone’s throw from Asti! Book a Piedmontese dinner with the family on your arrival day, where ‘nonna’ has done her best in the kitchen. Dinner is of course served with matching wines from their own Rovero vineyard. The vegetables also come from their own vegetable garden. Before dinner you will get a tour of the vineyard and an explanation about the winemaking process. Or you can ask hostess Michela for a delicious homemade pizza that you can eat in the lovely garden. Feel free to grab a glass of wine from the wine climate cabinet that is well stocked for the guests (you pay at the end of your stay).
Breakfast includes more homemade delicacies, such as different types of cakes. The bread is also baked by Michela herself. Even the wide choice of honey all comes from their own estate. Michela is happy to guide you to nice wine tastings and restaurants in the area. But enjoying a day at the (unheated) swimming pool is not a punishment either. Here you can experience La Dolce Vita in Italy!
Location: Agriturismo Il Milin, Str. Val Donata, 216, 14100 Asti AT, Italy, website
Asti
Lunch at the cozy, non-pretentious restaurant Tacabanda. The lunch menu is very affordable. When the weather is nice, the tables are lined up outside along the wall. Or you can have a seat downstairs in the high cellar, where the wines are displayed all the way up to the ceiling.
Just outside Asti – at walking distance from agriturismo Il Milin – you’ll find the cozy family restaurant Ristorante Enoteca Dente, where they serve delicious Italian dishes; with lots of truffle! Yum!
Locations:
- Tacabanda, Via Teatro Alfieri, 5, 14100 Asti AT, website;
- Ristorante Enoteca Dente, Via, Valle Tanaro, 43, 14100 Torrazzo AT, Italy.
La Morra
What a view! From the piazza in La Morra you can overlook the whole area. The road to La Morra is a real treat, with a new spectacular view after every hairpin bend. Stroll through the lovely Italian town or take a brisk walk in the area. Several routes have been set out from the village, so don’t forget your walking shoes!
For a delicious lunch – including a view of two churches – you can go to Osteria Le Vigne Bio. A menu full of tasty authentic Piedmontese dishes and of course only wines from the area (Barolo!).
In this area you can do wine tastings everywhere, so the choice of stress can strike. We visited Cantina Erbaluna. From the terrace you have a beautiful view of the region. For a small fee you get a tour and you can taste no less than 9 of their organically grown wines and digestifs such as grappa! Stock up on some good Barolos here to enjoy at home!
Locations:
2. Art and culture in Le Marche
Urbino – The ideal city
Urbino is also called “the ideal city”. The idea of the ideal city was typical of the Renaissance and was based on the pursuit of geometric perfection with perfect symmetry, composition and perspective. In the fifteenth century three large paintings of “the ideal city” were made and one of them is exhibited in Urbino. Urbino is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is a very beautiful – but very touristy – town on top of a hill.
Tip: Although busloads of elderly people are unloaded here, you have to be fit – or you will only make it to the flat streets and squares of Urbino.
Highlights Urbino:
- Birthplace of the painter Raphael: You can’t ignore it in Urbino: Raphael was born here. Somewhat by accident we walked into the birthplace of this famous painter. Here you can admire one of Raphael’s first masterpieces: a painting of the Virgin and Child that he made on the wall of his bedroom. Raphael lived here until he was eleven years old, so he was very young when he painted this endearing image. It is still not entirely certain whether the work really belongs to the young Raphael, or whether it is made by his father. After all, father Giovanni Santi was also a talented painter. You will also find some of his works in this museum. A tour of the spacious birth house is also worthwhile because of the other information about the rooms and other works and antique furniture.
- Palazze Ducale di Urbino: You should not miss this museum. The museum used to be a palace and you can still see that in the enormous fireplaces and beautiful rooms. In addition to the many Marias, including “La Muta” by Raphael, you will find exceptionally detailed carvings in the doors and a beautiful room that consists entirely of carvings. Just for that one room you really have to go in here!
- Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta: If you have visited the Palazze Ducale, then also visit the cathedral next door. In this cathedral, exceptionally, there is not such an abundance of gold as other Catholic churches, but the dome at the altar and the side altars are beautiful to see.
- Viewpoint Punto Panoramico Fortezza Albornoz: Follow the signs for a fantastic view of the city. Photo moment!
- Orto Botanico: A beautiful botanical garden in the heart of the city. The garden is kept by the University of Urbino. This century-old garden was officially established in 1809, but it’s actually the most important garden of the surrounding monastery since 1286. The garden was used to educate medical and agricultural students. The glasshouse was built in 1813 and the beautiful neoclassical brickstone facade dates from 1848. The opening hours are not ideal, but this oasis is a delight to walk through!
Tip: The locations of these highlights are mentioned in the map at the top of this page. Open the map on your phone and you know exactly where the hotspots in Urbino are!
Lunch at Ristorante Osteria L’Angolo Divino
Highly recommended for lunch (or dinner) is Ristorante Osteria L’Angolo Divino. The restaurant is located just outside the most touristy street, so fortunately it has not yet been discovered by all tourists. The dishes here are Italian, with a modern twist. The menu fits on 1 page, but there is plenty of choice of delicious pasta, fish and meat dishes. There are seats outside, but also inside in the (wine) cellar or on the first floor. We went here for lunch again on our second day in Urbino, and yes, that says something!
Another nice place for a cup of coffee and some cake or for lunch is Atabulus Enoteca con cucina. This cute restaurant with courtyard garden is a bit hidden and this makes it a little less touristy. Great to start or end your visit at Palazzo Ducale and relax.
Locations:
- Ristorante Osteria L’Angolo Divino, Via Sant’Andrea, 14, 61029 Urbino PU, website;
- Atabulus Enoteca con cucina, Piazza Rinascimento, 7, 61029 Urbino PU, Italy.
Tasting natural wines at Tenuta Cà Sciampagne
After wine tastings in the well-known regions of Piedmont and/or Tuscany, a wine tasting in La Marche is also a good idea. We opted for a completely different wine tasting this time: natural wines. At the small-scale wine farm Tenuta Cà Sciampagne only produces natural wines. One of the sons had to be picked by the grandma from the vineyard where he was harvesting with his father and brother. After a tour of the stages of the production process of this family business, we were allowed to taste different wines. And that was combined with a phenomenal view!!
Producing natural wines is completely manual work and that is also reflected in the price per bottle. But the international public is also slowly but surely starting to find this wine producer. The labels are postcards, because drinking the wine should also be a nice memory, just like a nice trip. We bought a box with different natural wines to enjoy at home after this beautiful (wine) journey.
Location: Tenuta Cà Sciampagne, Via Sant’Eufemia, nr. 8, 61029 Urbino PU, website
3. Lago Maggiore – Pensioners and luxury
We were looking for a destination where we had not been before to stop for a few days on the way back to the Netherlands. We ended up at Lago Maggiore, the largest lake in the north of Italy. I had read that Cannero beach was the most beautiful (and sunniest!) in this area so we looked at the possibilities there.
Hotel Cannero
The reviews of Hotel Cannero were very good so we booked a room. When we arrived here, we were somewhat overwhelmed by the luxury look of the hotel – and the average age of the guests: 75+ years old. It was immediately clear that the guests who stayed here came here for years. Even though most people here were of age, these are the sporty ones who like a good bit of Nordic walking.
The hotel is beautifully situated at the end of the boulevard and with a wide view of Lake Maggiore. The rooms are quite spacious, but a bit old-fashioned. You should actually go for a slightly more expensive room with a view, which we unfortunately did not do. For a small fee you can join the hotel’s boat for a small tour of the lake during sunset. The hotel also has it’s own Cantina to taste (and buy) wines. As a hotel guest you can also use the private Spa in Park Hotel Italia. Our hotel had arranged for a babysitter to look after our son while we could enjoy the sauna and a massage for 2 hours. The babysitter was certainly not free: €25 per hour, but it was worth it!
Tip: When the weather is warmer, you can also just settle down at the swimming pool of Hotel Cannero and soak up the sun.
Location: Hotel Cannero, Piazza Umberto I, 2, 28821 Cannero Riviera VB, website
Eten in Cannero
As a hotel guest you pay € 25 for a 3-course dinner in the hotel. They were excellent dishes – which were served very quickly – but we mainly ate outside the hotel the other days. Recommendations for lunch or dinner are:
- Trattoria Giardino: Modern cuisine, but also delicious pizzas (only during dinner) in a nice garden.
- La Trattoria da Gino e Gabi: A nice restaurant with a beautiful garden and ditto view where you can dine in when it’s too cold. But even if you sit inside you can enjoy the good atmosphere, friendly service and the excellent price-quality for the delicious food. Book your spot in advance because it is almost always fully booked here!
- Casa Banano: The decor here is fantastic! Skiffs (rowing boats) hang from the ceiling and the walls are decorated with windows, making it look like you’re sitting outside in a square. The pizza baker in the back is baking super fresh wood oven pizzas.
Locations:
- Trattoria Giardino, Via Massimo D’Azeglio, 33, 28821 Cannero Riviera VB, Italy;
- La Trattoria da Gino e Gabi, Via Dante Alighieri, 12, 28821 Cannero Riviera VB;
- Casa banano, Via Guglielmo Marconi, 30, 28821 Cannero Riviera VB, website.
To do in Cannero and surroundings
You have seen the village of Cannero rather quickly, but a walk on the boulevard, Cannero beach and through the village up past Grotta di Cannero – a chapel carved into a cave – is definitely recommended.
In front of the hotel you can board the ferry that takes you to other towns on Lago Maggiore. In Luino, the village across the street, you will find the largest leather market in northern Italy once a month, which attracts a lot of people. In Luino you can have a great lunch at Ristorante Pizzeria “TRE RE” di Lombardi Giuseppe in the courtyard. We have not been to the other villages because of the bad weather and too little time. But we will definitely come back to discover the rest of the Lago Maggiore area!
Location: Ristorante Pizzeria “TRE RE” di Lombardi Giuseppe, Via Alessandro Manzoni, 29, 21016 Luino VA
4. Stopovers for the outward and/or return journey
Stopover overnight: Novotel Mulhouse, France
Novotel Mulhouse Bale Fribourg in France is a great hotel with reasonably spacious and neat rooms. Very child-friendly with a play corner, a playground in the large garden where you can stretch your legs and a swimming pool! The nice thing about this hotel is that there is also a restaurant, with a good menu that mainly consists of delicious regional dishes. Once you have arrived here, you no longer have to look for somewhere else to eat. If you are very tired after the long car ride, you can order room service.
At the breakfast buffet, the choice mainly consists of delicious local products, such as jams and cheese, but of course also croissants, pain au chocolats and baguettes. A perfect start to continue your way.
Tip: Dogs are also welcome in certain rooms.
Location: Novotel Mulhouse Bâle Fribourg, Rue des Cévennes, 68390 Sausheim, France (via booking.com)
Ibis Strasbourg Sud La Vigie (France)
On the way back we slept in the Ibis Strasbourg Sud La Vigie (in France) and ate at the grill restaurant Hippopotamus, because the restaurant of the Ibis was not open (except for an overpriced microwave meal). To our surprise, this restaurant in the middle of nowhere was packed with guests in no time. Where did all these people suddenly come from and was there really no better restaurant in the area? Well, there is not much to say about the simple Ibis hotel, except that the price-quality ratio at the Novotel was much better.
Location: Ibis Strasbourg Sud La Vigie, 13 Rue Ferdinand Braun, 67540 Ostwald, France (via booking.com) and Hippopotamus Steakhouse, Zone commerciale La Vigie, Rue du 23 Novembre, 67540 Ostwald, France, website
Stops along the way (Luxembourg & Switzerland)
Other nice places to stop along the way and stretch your legs (and kids proof!) are, in order from the Netherlands (via the Sint Bernhard pass):
- Luxembourg: Resting place Capellen-South. This is a nice parking with a large playground and benches to play outside and stretch your legs. There is also a gas station, Burger King, a shop, but also a kiosk with freshly prepared sandwiches and coffee (note: it can be very busy, especially in high season);
- Switzerland: Panoramic Restoroute de la Gruyère. This stop is especially nice because of the beautiful view over the Lac de la Gruyère. Here you can buy Swiss knick-knacks and chocolate, drink coffee and there is a playground outside. You could even spend the night here (Drive-In Motel De La Gruyère, website)
- Switzerland: Restaurant Bivouac Napoleon is about the last restaurant you encounter before entering the Great St. Bernard Tunnel (or choosing the pass) and ending up in Italy. Delicious seasonal, regional dishes in a cozy Swiss log cabin. You can also spend the night here (website).
Tip: Do read my blog The ultimate packing list for travelling with a baby (by airplane) because a lot of the stuff you should pack are the same for a roadtrip with a baby.
Looking for another roadtrip? Check out my blogs about a roadtrip in Israel. Other round trips and itineraries you can already read about are my travels in Colombia, Bali, Chili, Seychelles or blogs about a 3-week trip in Sri Lanka: Temples and elephants – Round trip Sri Lanka (I), Kandy, Adam’s Peak and Ella – Round Trip Sri Lanka (part II) and Leopard spotting, surfing and culture – Round trip Sri Lanka (part III). Destinations to enjoy (more) wine are Chile en Argentina.
Travelling with a baby? Check out The ultimate packing list for travelling with a baby (by airplane) and my experience on Curaçao with a baby.
Soon I will make a roadtrip in Bosnia, Croatia and Montenegro with my family. Can’t wait!! Tips for these countries are very welcome, so please leave them as a reply on the website or Instagram.
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