This is the second part of my blog about Sri Lanka and it is about the second week of our 3 week round trip in this country. After our fantastic visit to Sigiriya, our driver dropped us off in Kandy. From Kandy we travelled on to Hatton (Adam’s Peak) and then to Ella.
Tip: In the map, turn the different layers on or off via the left square button in the grey bar.
1. Kandy
Kandy is located in the middle of Sri Lanka and partly because of this it is a good base for the rest of the country and Kandy is therefore visited by many tourists. We stayed here for 2 nights and that was really enough to explore the town. In addition to a nice walk around Lake Kandy and strolling through the town, I have 2 more recommendations for you to do:
Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic
The Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic is a world-famous Buddhist temple in Kandy and should not be missed during your visit to Kandy. This ancient temple has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1988. It is built in the unique style of Kandy. In this temple the left canine of Buddha is venerated and you can marvel at all the gold, figurines and architectural style.
When we visited the temple there were also many schoolchildren in their colorful school uniforms who really wanted to take a picture with us (and vice versa).
Tip for women: Bring a thin scarf you can wear as a skirt to cover your bare legs and a thin cardigan to cover your shoulders.
Location: Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, Sri Dalada Veediya, Kandy 20000, Sri Lanka, website
Kandy Lake Club – Cultural Dance Show
In the evening we visited the Kandy Lake Club for a cultural dance show. Traditional Sri Lankan dances are performed in beautiful costumes. The highlight of the show was walking over hot coals and fire-breathing at the end of the performance. Obviously very touristy, but certainly nice to visit a show if you stay a night in Kandy.
Location: Kandy Lake Club, 7, Sangamittha Mawatha, Kandy 20000, Sri Lanka, website
Sleeping: Nature Walk Resort
The Nature Walk Resort is located on the outskirts of Kandy and to get here you have to walk uphill, but it is a very nice and quiet hotel. From the restaurant on the top floor of the hotel you have beautiful views of the nature around Kandy. You can walk straight from the hotel into the city.
Since you are so close to the jungle, you should not be startled if a monkey suddenly jumps on your table during breakfast and runs off with your sandwich. If you don’t feel like going out in the evening, you can also have a nice dinner here.
Locatie: Nature Walk Resort, No 9 Sangamitha Road, Kandy 20000, Sri Lanka, website
2. Hatton (Adam’s Peak)
Our next destination was Hatton, to climb Adam’s Peak from there. We tried to book train tickets at Kandy railway station on the spot and the only places that were still available were for second class. In itself no problem of course, but the train was so full that we – including backpacks – had to hang half out of the train to be able to join. And it was a 2.5-hour journey. Fortunately, we had some fresh air and beautiful views. It was quite an experience!
Sleeping: B. Rose House
From the train station we walked through the pouring rain up the hill to our accommodation B. Rose House. Why the hotel is called “Rose” becomes clear when you see it: the house is bright pink. From the terrace you have beautiful views and with a bit of luck you can even see the top of Adam’s Peak. For dinner we were invited into the living room of the family to eat together with grandma, daughter and owners.
Location: B. Rose House, 36/B PANSALA ROAD, Hatton, Sri Lanka (via Booking.com)
Adam’s Peak
Adam’s Peak is a mountain peak of 2243 meters high. It is a rock formation in the form of a footprint and a Buddhist pilgrimage site. You climb the mountain in the middle of the night and then see the sun rise on the top.
Through the owners of B. Rose House we had booked a tuktuk to take us to the start of the trail of Adam’s Peak that night, so we would be on the top of the mountain at sunrise. Departure time: 23:00. We tore across the road in the tuktuk, but soon we were in a traffic jam of 14 kilometers long, up to the foot of Adam’s Peak. It was a special “Poya” that gave the Sri Lankans 3 days off and this was the perfect opportunity for all of them to go on a pilgrimage to Adam’s Peak. The locals were apparently prepared for this, because along the road groups of people were cooking food. It looked very cozy. Our tuktuk driver tried to drive us further forward.
We didn’t get any further and eventually we gave up and turned around. If it was already so busy here, it would be completely packed on the mountain and we would take an extremely long time to reach the top. Our driver was very welcoming and invited us in the middle of the night for a cup of tea with biscuits at his house. In the early hours we came back to our hotel unfinished business, but with a nice experience.
Tip: Check with the locals or in your hotel when it’s “Poya Day”. This monthly day off coincides with the position of the moon and on this day pilgrim sites, like Adam’s Peak, are very busy and the trains are overcrowded!
NB: On Bali I did successfully climb a mountain and I was rewarded with a magical sunrise from the top. Read my blog – including packing list – about this experience here.
3. Ella
The next morning the same tuktuk driver as the previous night picked us up for a long trip via Nuwara Eliya to Ella, as there were no train tickets available. The 3.5-hour tuk-tuk tour was actually a fantastic alternative and maybe even more fun than the train!
Tip: A tuktuk has very limited space for luggage, so in this case a backpack is very useful. Read my blog Backpack or suitcase?
In a tuktuk you get much more of all the smells and colors of the country. In addition, we were completely free to stop wherever and whenever we wanted. Along the way we enjoyed waterfalls, tea plantations, coconuts, the town of Nuwara Eliya and cups of tea at St Clair’s Tea Centre. Even though the train is running, consider this option of transportation!
NB. Make sure you have enough cash before you go to Ella, because there are no ATMs here! At least, that was the case when I was there in February 2016, so we had to take the bus to a city nearby to get money.
Ella Rock and 98 Acres Café
Since climbing Adam’s Peak had not succeeded, we wanted to do another hike. Ella Rock is really doable and is a nice walk from Ella. From Ella Rock you have a view of Little Adam’s Peak, which you can also climb, but this is a longer and more difficult trip. Due to the heat, it is best to leave early in the morning when you go hiking.
On the way back from Ella Rock we walked past the super luxurious 98 Acres Resort en Spa and stopped at the accompanying 98 Acres Cafe for a refreshing drink. It is highly recommended to plop down on the terrace here, because you will be rewarded with beautiful views of Little Adam’s Peak. If your budget allows it, you can of course also spend the night here.
Rawana waterfalls
In the afternoon we still had enough energy to view the Rawana waterfalls. The route to the waterfalls is already an experience in itself, because you walk on the railway track; and yes, there are trains running on the tracks, so keep paying attention if you hear anything coming! Bring snacks and plenty of water and find a nice spot to enjoy the cool water.
Tip: There are plenty of restaurants in Ella to eat, for example at Chill Cafe.
Sleeping: Samadhi Nature Resort
Samadhi Nature Resort is located on the outskirts of the busy and touristy town of Ella. It is a beautiful location, in the middle of the jungle, but within walking distance (about 1 km) of the restaurants and hustle and bustle of Ella. We had a large room here with two double beds. From the balcony you have a view of the green canopy and you may still see beautiful birds or monkeys swinging by (unfortunately I did not take pictures of the hotel).
Location: Samadhi Nature Resort, Ella – Passara Rd, Ambagollapathana, Sri Lanka (via booking.com)
Want to know how the journey started? Then read the blog 3-week tour Temples and Elephant – Sri Lanka (part I). Soon the last part of this amazing tour in Sri Lanka will appear about the safari in Yala National Park, surfing in the seaside resort of Hikkaduwa and culture sniffing in Galle and Colombo on TeppieTravels.com. Sign up for the newsletter below so as not to miss any new blogs from TeppieTravels!
Other round trips you can already read about are my travels in Colombia, Israel, Bali, Chili and the Seychelles. Travelling with a baby? Check out The ultimate packing list for travelling with a baby (by airplane) and my experience on Curaçao with a baby.
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