It’s not a very long drive from Maputo, Mozambique, to one of the nearby game parks like Kruger Park in South Africa or one of the game reserves in Swaziland (now called: “eSwatini”). I chose to go to Mkhaya Game Park in Swaziland in September 2009. Mkhaya Game Reserve is a private reserve and is the most exclusive safari experience in Swaziland. The park is a sanctuary for endangered species to protect them from poaching.
Besides the “smaller” wildlife, like wildebeests, zebras, impalas, kudus, giraffes, nyalas, hippos, hyenas and crocodiles, it’s very likely that you’ll encounter white and black rhinos. Mkhaya is also home to the only herd of buffalos of Swaziland and besides leopards are occasionally seen. Mkhaya created a couple of fenced areas to protect the endangered species.
When we entered the park, we immediately spotted two rhinos! We parked the car at Stone Camp, our camp for two nights. Our cottage was a surprise: no windows or doors… only a little wall, a roof and a fence to keep the larger animals out! You have a great view of the bush, the dry river bed and the animals from your bathroom. Good afternoon monkeys and nyalas!
After our welcome drinks, we could do a short game drive before sunset. We left our own car at the camp and hopped into the Mkhaya-jeep with a guide. Soon we encountered a herd of buffalos at a waterhole. A wonderful sight to see more than 30 buffalos drinking together! We also spotted more rhinos, zebras and smaller animals.
When we arrived at Stone Camp again, the camp was turned into a fairytale: they’d placed small oil lamps everywhere in the camp (there’s no electricity). We enjoyed a delicious meal. Dining under the stars with a campfire in the background is a magical experience. You’ll go to sleep with the sounds of the jungle, like the hysterical laughter of hyenas and the intense cry of bushbabies.
At 5 am I suddenly woke up because I heard a crashing and snorting noise close to my cottage, but it was too dark to see what it was. By dawn I saw that we were surrounded with a herd of grazing nyalsa. At 5:30 a coffee and a muffin were served at our cottage and half an hour later we were ready for the morning game drive. One of our friends had a sleepless night, because she was visited by a (crying) bushbaby, searching her bags for food.
During that game drive we drove into a group of 15 elephants (the total number of elephants at the park) and a couple of rhinos. It looked like they just had a meeting all together. A little further down the road we stopped at a waterhole where giraffes were drinking. It’s very interesting to see how giraffes drink water. After the game drive we had a delicious breakfast. The breakfast is also served outside, in the middle of the nyalas, warthogs and many birds.
For me the two bush walks (safari’s on foot) in the park were the highlights. A bush walk is very exciting and spectacular, because it really makes you aware of how small and vulnerable you are between all those huge wild animals. Meanwhile the guide explains a lot about everything you encounter during the walk. During the first bush walk we could approach the rhinos at the waterhole up to 5 meters.
The second time the group was very small, with the hot African sun burning… First we visited the rhinos again, then we ran into a group of elephants and then we sat down at the edge of the waterhole, looking at the hippos showing their teeth and a crocodile watching us closely. At the end of the day the hippos became quite active, so they gave a really good show with a lot of sound. On the way back we encountered a couple of elephants again. They’re so impressive!
NB: In 2015 Mkhaya removed all the elephants from the park due to the extensive habitat modification and threat to greater biodiversity.
Packing list:
- Good closed walking shoes with solid soles to prevent thorn penetration;
- Long socks;
- Sun hat or cap;
- Insect repellent;
- Long sleeved shirt;
- Long trousers (of breathable material, like cotton or linen);
- (head)torch;
- Binoculars;
- Camera and charged accu/enough batteries!
Location:
Mkhaya Game Reserve
Address: MR8, Swaziland (S26° 41′ 2.49″ E31° 44′ 47.73″)
Tel.: +268 2582 3992
Website: https://biggameparks.org/properties/mkhaya-game-reserve-3
Tip: It’s also possible to visit this park when you’re travelling in Mozambique or (the northern part of) South Africa.
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